New York City

This will be my last post before returning to Missoula for Christmas (and to see whether or not the National Endowment for the Humanities will fund six months of my research project)...

Shortly before I left for the city, my photo duplication request from the Houghton Library at Harvard arrived in the mail. I can't wait to get a chance to organize my treasures from the Theodore Roosevelt collection!

On Wednesday, November 14th, 2007, I ventured into the Big Apple for a combination research trip and reunion with two friends from Missoula. I had secured my aunt's apartment on the Upper East Side for the duration of our stay, which worked out well (since it was so close to the #6 subway stop at Lexington and 96th).

I spent the first two days at the Regional National Archives building on Varick and Houston, which also happens to be the headquarters for the Regional Homeland Security Division (so the entrance had particularly tight security). I was disappointed to find that their microfilm passenger arrival lists for the Port of New York are the very same as the ones I had already consulted in Washington, D.C. The first day I found the librarians particularly unfriendly and I would've gone away from that experience with a bad taste in my mouth, had I not returned the following day and been treated to much better service.

In the afternoon of the second day, I took the #1 subway down to Battery Park to visit the site of Castle Garden, the first immigration station in New York (used before Ellis Island was built in 1892). The facade is still there, and there is a small National Park exhibit on immigration, but the rest of the grounds are now used to sell tickets for admission to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island.

In the reading room at the New York Public Library I consulted a reference book on passenger ship manifests, which explained the reasons for my frustration in trying to document early immigration solely with primary sources. The worst case scenario is that I may have to piece together that part of the story through secondary sources (including the letters of Theodore Roosevelt, who may be deemed a fairly reliable secondary source). While I was there I also visited the Jack Kerouac Exhibit (featured on the banner hanging from the front entrance in the accompanying picture).

The only other task I completed in NYC was to locate (and photograph) the former homes of Theodore Roosevelt, where he was living when he corresponded with members of the family I am researching. They were both in very fashionable neighborhoods! One is now an Italian pizzeria and barber shop - and the other is Club Monaco with a very high-end woman's clothing store on the street level.

Now, as to our sightseeing in New York... We went through Central Park in a hansome cab (pulled by Norman and driven by Emmett), played in FAO Schwarz (the toy store with the piano featured in the movie "Big"), visited Rockefeller Center, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Times Square, and the Apollo Theatre in Harlem. I spent two half days at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Most notable among the special exhibitions I saw were: Tapestry in the Baroque, Gifts for the Gods (Egyptian temple artifacts), and The Age of Rembrandt (very crowded). Regular exhibition favorites were: Silversmiths to the Nation (Fletcher and Gardiner), and the new galleries of Oceanic Art (terrific wood carvings).

I came out of the city last Wednesday on the Lakeland Bus Line from Port Authority and was able to spend Thanksgiving on the east coast with my family for the first time in many years. The weekend was chock full of fun events, good company and delicious food for which I was indeed, grateful.

Washington, D.C.

I returned to Washington, D.C. (via Fredericksburg and Arlington, VA) on Sunday, October 28th, 2007. I stayed with my new friend Kathy, whom I met this summer (my first time through Washington, D.C.). I commuted each day via the METRO (on the orange line) from East Falls Church.

At the National Archives, I looked through passenger manifests of vessels sailing between Liverpool, England, and Queenstown, Ireland to the New York Harbor. I had some information regarding the sailing of the men in the family, but not a clue about the passage of the women I am studying. The indices of the passenger lists (including ancestry.com, library edition) have huge date gaps - and wouldn't you know, the dates I am searching for fall within those gaps! A lot of microfilm for a little reward... (and I got dizzy, too).

Tuesday morning I poured over historical maps in the Map Division of the Library of Congress, Madison building. This past summer (during the teacher institute) we had a tour of the Map Division, and it was satisfying to put the knowledge from that training to use on my own project. In the afternoon I went to the Photograph and Print Division to find images relating to my research. The librarians in these divisions were very helpful and accommodating.

Wednesday I spent the day in the Manuscript Division selecting, requesting, and reading microfilm copies and original files seeking letters written back and forth between members of the family and Theodore Roosevelt. I was sidetracked momentarily by a woman's love letter to T.R., her last name being the same as the family I am studying...

Thursday I tied up loose ends in each of the divisions I had researched; collecting price lists, downloading images, and checking references. Then I went to the Current Newspaper and Periodical Division to find the institutions which have holdings of the historical newspapers I will need to consult. I also walked across the hall to the Film Division and watched a brief promotional film produced by the Northern Pacific Railway about North Dakota. I was aghast as I watched the 'spin' on acculturation of the American Indians. In the afternoon, I walked back to the National Archives to find an unusual discovery about my subject (which may contradict some earlier findings).

Since I had a few hours to kill in the late afternoon, I decided to visit the Theodore Roosevelt Memorial (island) and Georgetown, so I jumped on the METRO, and off I went. I walked so much that day, that I wore a hole in one of my socks!

On Friday, I drove back to northwest New Jersey (about a 5-6 hour drive). En route I finally took the time to visit the Gettysburg National Military Park, which was amazing. At first, I thought I'd be satisfied to stretch my legs and walk around the cemetery, but then I decided to walk the route of the 2 hour auto tour, which I accomplished in an hour! (Of course, I didn't read every inscription along the way... but I highly recommend a visit for anyone who happens to be in the area!)

Next stop - New York, New York.

In between visits to research collections

What, may you ask, do I do in between research trips? Well, I've been staying at my brother's home in northwest New Jersey, and spending most of my days (and some nights) at my friend's cottage on Swartzwood Lake, which is very conducive to quiet study and reflection. (My brother and his wife are currently experiencing the trials and tribulations of bathroom remodeling.)

While primarily I read, study and take notes on various background readings, I do get in an occasional bike ride, some kayaking, and plenty of photography. When I find a spare moment, I try to keep up with my journal and blog. And, although I haven't done a lot of serious writing for my project yet (due to the unfinished nature of my research), I have written some poetry!

I've become a casual observer and fan of swan behavior. There is a flock who make the cove right outside the cottage their home. I've seen more black bear and wild turkey in this area than I've ever seen in Montana - and I saw a bald eagle right before my trip to Boston.

When my son Colin was here, I took him to some of my favorite old haunts near the Delaware Water Gap. He was feverishly snapping digital pictures. I asked him why. He said, "Nobody in Montana will believe that there's a dirt road in New Jersey."

Who would've thought - in Joisey?

Harvard Research

On Monday, October 8th (Columbus Day) I drove to Newton, MA, where I stayed with Emily's folks (John and Sheila) to begin my research at Cambridge. I hopped the "T" every morning at rush hour to begin my day at the Houghton Reading Room precisely at the 9:00 a.m. opening hour (very civilized). Upon my arrival Tuesday morning, the curator greeted me with a book truck full of resources specific to my subject. (We had been in touch via e-mail leading up to my arrival on the Harvard campus.) For the next three days, I discovered little treasures among the resources in the Theodore Roosevelt collection, among them the Anna Cowles letters and the notes of biographers Carleton Putnam and Hermann Hagedorn.

One evening I stayed in Boston to meet a friend and take in just a few of the sights - most notably the North End, where I've never tasted better canolis. If I had one regret about my time there, it would be that I didn't take full advantage of the sightseeing opportunities - but it's a mere four hour drive from north Jersey, so perhaps I'll return.

On my way back I took the long, scenic route, driving through places like Walden Pond, and Robert Frost and Norman Rockwell country. I stayed overnight in Bennington Vermont, took plenty of photos of covered bridges, and bought up the state's surplus of maple syrup. As the east coast has been having some unseasonably warm weather this fall, the leaves have not yet attained their peak color; however, the deciduous countryside is still beautiful and I'm continually amazed by the quaintness of the small towns of the New England and mid-Atlantic states.

Summer in September

A little birdie told me it was time to update my blog, and indeed, it's been over a month since I posted any news - so here is the first installment...

When I returned from Europe, I spent the month of September at my home on Long Beach Island, New Jersey. I have never been able to enjoy it outside of the high tourist season before, and I found it a wonderful way to collect my thoughts about the research I collected overseas and do some serious reading, note-taking, and a little writing.

Since my "summer" spent in Europe was on the chilly side, the sunny days and warm temperatures (high 70's, low 80's) were welcome. The days intertwined into one another so seamlessly that I really lost track of time down there. The first week (immediately following Labor Day), there was plenty of extended family around, which made for pleasant company. The second two weeks of the month, I had the house to myself (with the exception of a very fun mid-week visit from a dear childhood friend). The last week, my son Colin came to visit and we spent most of our time there, the exception being a brief trip to Sussex County to visit family and some of my old stomping grounds near my hometown.

This trip to the shore made for some pleasant memories. I was able to enter the Forsythe Wildlife Refuge at the southern end of the island for the first time, since it's usually closed for the nesting birds (piping plovers and black terns) during the summer. I walked the length of the 3 1/2 mile beach (during low tide) to the tip where the ocean meets the bay. (One gets a distant view of Atlantic City from there.) I bought another used (ocean-going) kayak, and learned to use it, which is a whole different experience than kayaking on rivers and lakes! (That's all I'm saying in case my orthopedic surgeon is reading this...) I missed seeing the brown pelicans, but saw my first dolphins one morning at sunrise, at first mistaking their dorsal fins for sand sharks, where I had just been kayaking the day before. I also volunteered as "road crew" for the inaugural "Endless Summer Triathlon," which was a sprint race. (I'm not sure they knew what they were doing when they sent me to a street corner on the bicycle route with a reflective vest, flag AND STOP sign!)

Then, of course, I saw innumerable sunrises and sunsets, rode my bicycle almost everywhere I needed to go (I took my car out only twice during the month), as well as feasted on almost every kind of seafood known to humankind (culminating the last weekend in September with "Chowderfest"). I also tried to get back into some semblance of physical shape, since I had way too many full Irish breakfasts and not enough exercise in Europe (save for the walking in Edinburgh, which my hip flexor didn't enjoy as much as I did.)

Baaack to Ireland

During my second week in Scotland, I decided to change (and extend) my travel itinerary to accommodate a return trip to Ireland. I needed to secure some more family information during regular business hours of some government and church offices that I had missed on my first trip through Dublin. (FYI - don't trust that the out-of-country, toll-free customer support number that Expedia provides will actually work overseas!)

I had one day, traveling by a "Rambler" bus pass from my airport complex hotel to visit the General Register House and the Representative Church Body Library; in addition to return trips to the National Library and the National Archives in Dublin. I found birth records for Sophia (and her brothers), her older sister's death and burial records, and her youngest brother's baptismal record. I'd have to say that the most amazing records have been preserved by Ireland's RCB, with parish records I consulted (for Clonsilla) dating back to 1830! The information gleaned from civil and church records was most useful to me in terms of establishing addresses and the father's occupation. Sophia's father was, indeed, a jack of all trades.

On my first visit to the National Library I had not searched the Dublin reference resource, Thom's Directory back far enough in time (because I was unsure how long the family lived in Ireland). This time I hit pay dirt! All in all - even though a whirlwind tour back through Dublin, a much more successful one. It's a good thing I knew where some of the government offices were - otherwise I might have run out of time (and had to stay longer)! Awww...

Fulbright Reunion in Carlisle

My last weekend in the U.K. was spent in Carlisle (Cumbria), rekindling a friendship initiated last December during an exchange trip to England.

Cath and Katy picked me up from the train station and we went to the Continental Market in the Carlisle square. We visited her dear neighbors, who live in a quaint English countryside cottage; enjoying some afternoon tea and biscuits. We had a delicious gourmet meal that evening in Cath's lovely hilltop home prepared by her husband, Nigel. We took a walk the next morning by Jockey Shields overlooking the northern Pennines; and visited the stained glass windows at St. Martin's church in Brampton, as well as the Lanercost Priory.

A quick but worthwhile trip, since neither of us will be in place for the return exchange between Cumbria and Hellgate this fall.

Family Background Research

I flew to Edinburgh, Scotland on Aug. 6th - and stayed through August 27th. And although my primary purpose was to conduct family background research, the Edinburgh and Fringe festivals were in full swing, so I did attend quite a few music, dance, and comedy events while I was there. As a matter of fact I was drawn into Fred MacCauley's comedy act from the balconey in Queen's Hall during my visit, where I became known as the "Montana Lady." It was high tourist season even though the weather (during my whole trip across the pond I might add) was "soft" and cool. Temperatures hovered around 59 or 60 degrees, and I saw at most (during nearly six weeks of travel) four days of sunshine. However, what the weather lacked, the research made up for...

During my first week I transcribed letters, scanned photographs and other family documents, and visited places important to the family history. Most noteable among my travels was a short bus trip to the "borders" area of Scotland, in particular a place called Jedburgh, where Sophia's (the subject of my study) mother's family resided. I stayed with my friend's sister, whose husband is the farm manager on the Mellerstain estate. Jedburgh was a quaint little town, and I was able to discover (and photograph) the house where the family lived according to the 1861 census. There are also references in the letters to shopping for suits at the tailor shop there.
Among the places where I conducted research during my second week were: the General Register House, the National Archives, the National Library (including the Map Division), the City Library, and the Grange Cemetery (with telephone help from the Mortonhall Crematorium).

Scotland has the most amazing archival and civil records! Most of the librarians, curators, and civil servants were friendly, helpful, and accommodating. I was lucky enough to document most of the family background history, including locating and printing the will of Sophia's grandfather (circa 1883), which verified a reference to an inheritance in the letters. The most surprising discovery was that Sophia's family lived in Ireland for over twenty years, instead of the two or three years that I had earlier surmised - so that led to a brief return trip to Ireland when I left Scotland. (See next post.)

There are still a few questions left unanswered, but I'm hoping that future research among the places in my work plan will lead me to the answers. Worst case scenario - I may have to fly to London to research the archives there. :-)

Brief Ireland Research Stint

Although I visited Ireland for two weeks, only three days was spent researching in Dublin. I accessed reader's cards in the Berkely Library at Trinity College ("home" to the famous Book of Kells - there's a story there), The National Library of Ireland (where there was a fabulous exhibit on W.B. Yeats), and the National Archives. I must admit that I was a little dissappointed to find that I did not have enough background information to secure much information of value to my project. Perhaps I should have visited Edinburgh first, but alas - a return trip to Ireland would not be much of a burden!

In addition to my research, I was able to visit the National Gallery of Art, the Museum of Archeology, St. Patrick's Cathedral, and of course, the Grafton St./St. Stephen's Green Park areas. I traveled on foot through Dublin, but took the commuter trains in and out each morning from a town called Donabate, where I was staying.

In addition to my time in Dublin, I traveled around the Irish countryside quite a bit - thanks to my friend, Noel. I visited the Hill of Tara, where the High Kings of Ireland resided, as well as Trim Castle (where Braveheart was filmed). I explored the burial and mesolithic community sites of Knowth and Newgrange. I walked to the Hill (and Castle) of Slane (very near Noel's home). The picture I'm posting today was taken there. We drove across the border to Northern Ireland and back again through the Cooley mountains, where the I.R.A. used to train, and along the Irish Sea through places like Laytown, Skerries, Rush, and Lusk.

We also took a road trip to the west (Atlantic) coast, avoiding the traffic going to the Galway races, where possible. I spent my birthday visiting the Burren near Ballyvaughan. The next day we visited the Cliffs of Moher, went to the seaside town of Lahinch (famous for it's golf course), and into the village of Lisdoonvarna (known for it's fall match-making festival). We heard some delightful traditional Irish music that night at the Rathbaun Hotel by an all-girl "band."

And, if you've never seen an Irish hurling match, you're missing out! It can only be described as a combination of rugby, soccer and cricket. Hurlies are used to knock the slithers either through the goal (three points) or over the goalposts (one point). I became a fanatic while I was there. Cork and Waterford played a quarterfinal rematch the day before I left, with Waterford coming out on top to advance to the semifinals of the All-Ireland.

Summer Teacher Institute - Library of Congress

The Summer Teacher Institute at the Library of Congress was an amazing experience...
There were 22 teacher/librarians in attendance from all over the United States and representing all different kinds and levels of schools; public, private, elementary and secondary. We had been selected from a field of approximately 180 applicants for the institute, and were feeling rather grateful to be there. Perhaps that's why this particular group of teachers was better behaved during instruction than I had ever encountered before in any workshop I've attended in my 20 years of teaching! It was either that - or the wonderful food and hospitality that was offered to us each day.

We were given tours of the three building Library of Congress complex, each named for a president (Madison, Jefferson, and Adams). We were instructed on the use of various kinds of resources, focusing primarily on the American Memory Project. We had tours of the Map and Manuscript Divisions, as well as a presentation of the Photograph Division. The institute culminated in hands-on computer lab time to explore the resources on a selected unit of study, and to prepare a brief multimedia presentation of our unit, which we shared with our peers.

I highly encourage anyone who has an interest in the American Memory Project and the Library of Congress to apply for this first-rate experience. What, may you ask, was my favorite part of the institute? Professionally, I was most taken with the presentation in the Manuscript Division, but personally I was most fulfilled when I used my Library of Congress Reader's Card for the first time! Rest assured, I'll be applying for the continuation of this institute next summer, right Danna? (Pick me, pick me!)